Do you know which jewellery metals actually irritate your skin?

So which metals cause a reaction? Let me share with you the culprits for our misery ;p

Allergenic Metals

The main metals in jewellery that may cause a reaction

Copper

Yes, copper jewelry is infamous for turning your skin green. It is a lovely reddish metal which is easy to work with, but it oxidizes quickly. When Copper comes into contact with skin/sweat/other chemicals, oxidation happens and it can turn skin green. The “green skin” factor makes it unpopular for ear wires or earring posts. The amount and how quickly skin turns green depends on your own body chemistry. Some people experience very little reaction. You can lacquer (or otherwise coat) it, but high contact points— such as going through an ear — or frequent wearing can wear off the protective coat quickly. For this reason you may want to mount copper bracelet designs onto a non-tarnishing backing, or use copper-colored niobium ear wires on copper earrings.

Nickel

Nickel allergy is quite common. Nickel was used as an alloy to harden most metals for jewellery making, especially Gold. Common side effects are itching and redness, dry skin, blisters and worse. If this happens, no matter what jewellery you are wearing its best to remove the piece. If you have developed a Nickel allergy, you can also have a reaction to other metals your body mistakes for nickel. This can happen when wearing things like Palladium with Cobalt in.

Alloyed Gold (below 24K Gold)

Only 24k Gold can be said to be truly hypoallergenic as it’s not an alloy. However pure gold is hardly ever used for jewellery as its incredibly soft. The purity of Gold is shown in the karat rating

20 karat = 83% Gold

18 karat = 75% Gold

14 karat = 58% Gold

12 karat = 50% Gold

9 karat = 37.5% Gold

The other metals Gold jewellery is alloyed with depends on the colour required and can vary for each piece, and there are no rules about which other are metals used.

- Yellow gold is mostly alloyed with Copper and Silver, although Zinc and nickel can be used.

- White gold is often alloyed with other white metals such as Nickel, Silver, Zinc. Palladium is often used in newer pieces as more people become aware of Nickel allergies. To improve the colour Rhodium plating is added and has the benefit of protecting the skin. See Rhodium above.

- Rose gold is often Gold combined with Copper to give the distinctive reddish hue.

Most reactions to Gold jewellery occurs due to the Nickel added to make the piece harder. Always aim for a higher karat piece for less reaction however.

Silver

Silver is very soft metal and therefore mixed with other metals to help work the material and improve durability. Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, which the 925 mark means, mixed with other metals normally copper or zinc that some people can still have a reaction to.

Then the copper in the silver may react and create that weird green/black stain around the piercing. Severe reactions can be inflamed and dry skin, sometimes even breaking into blisters. Silver Jewellery also tarnishes due to the copper reacting to the air and skin. This tarnishing can then rub onto your skin causing black marks.

Keep silver jewellery clean and polished to limit the tarnishing, and the tarnishing shouldn't be an issue.

Stainless steel

There are over 150 grades of stainless steel and they are strong, don't tarnish, can be polished easily and is great value. Jewellery in stainless steel is commonly made from 316l is often called medical grade stainless steel as it doesn't react to the skin. However 316 does contain around 12% nickel but meets EU directives on nickel leaching, however it can still cause a reaction for some people with a sensitive nickel allergy.

The Euroinox publication 'Stainless Steel-The Safe Choice' shows results of nickel release tests from some of the most widely used stainless steel grades in synthetic sweat, along with results of allergic reaction patch tests. These show that grades 304 / 304L/ 316/ 316L can be expected to meet the 0.5 micrograms / sq.cm. / week nickel release rates. (Actual release rates are shown as being less than 0.05 micrograms / sq.cm. / week.) Clinical patch tests reinforced the nickel release sweat test results showing no allergic reaction in grades (304) (304L) (316) (316L). sq.cm. / week.) .

Bronze

Bronze is a mix of Copper and Tin and sometimes mixed with other metals in lesser amounts such as Aluminium, or even Nickel. If you are looking for a bronze bracelet then it is worth seeing if they mention the composition. The main thing with Bronze is that it reacts when in contact with the skin for a while. It's the Copper content that will cause an oxidation layer and turn areas of the skin green.

Tungsten

Tungsten is extremely hard, dense, and very tough. That is why Tungsten rings feel very heavy for the size. However straight Tungsten rings are more likely to include the element Cobalt, which can be an allergen for some skin types.

In jewellery it is mostly alloyed with carbon which makes it even harder. This is tungsten carbide. One big advantage is tungsten carbide jewellery is very scratch resistant. Some Tungsten Carbide could be alloyed with Cobalt too, so best check the composition when buying. A down side is that Tungsten Carbide jewellery contains approximately 15% nickel as a binder.

Brass

Brass is a Copper and Zinc alloy. Copper content will have the reaction stated above, turning skin green. Brass is mainly used as a base metal is it plates easily. Unfortunately, when this plating wear thin, it can case a reaction.

There is no 100% certain rule as everyone's body chemistry is different. Metals less likely to cause a reaction: Titanium, Niobium and Aluminium, and the purer grades the better. Then the alloys, Platinum and Palladium, reactions start to become more common and then we get to Stainless Steel and 18k Gold. So which ones are safe to wear? Let me share more about the hypoallergenic metals.

What does hypoallergenic actually mean?

Hypoallergenic means “below normal” or “slightly” allergenic - simply means less likely to cause reaction. Hypoallergenic jewellery is made from materials less likely to cause a reaction.

If you have an allergy to some jewellery most of the time its either Nickel and Copper. Many people are allergic to nickel, so “nickel free” and “hypoallergenic” are sometimes considered synonymous. Be aware that hypoallergenic does not mean nickel-free, nor does it have a legal or medical definition for use in jewelry. You’re better off using specific materials rather than the vague term “hypoallergenic.”

Many people believe that stainless steel is nickel free, but most stainless steel alloys (even surgical stainless steel) contain 8-12% nickel, Sterling Silver contains 7.5% Copper and 18k Gold can contain 25% of anything! Any metal mixed with others is called an alloy.

Did you know? Metal hypersensitivity is a common condition that affects 10% to 15% of the human population. It is estimated that up to 17% of women and 3% of men are allergic to nickel and that 1% to 3% of people are allergic to cobalt and chromium.

So what metals are hypoallergenic? And are any better than others? Unalloyed inert bio-compatible metals, such as Tantalum, Titanium or Niobium are the least likely to cause a reaction and are used in medical implants for this reason. Other materials called "hypoallergenic" may be in a grey area such as stainless steel. Read below about the best hypoallergenic metals for jewellery:

Titanium (Nickel Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Titanium is a very strong natural metal and extremely hard - 3x the strength of steel but 40% less weight. It is frequently used in medical implants, and is another excellent choice for people with (nickel) allergies. Titanium is long lasting, corrosion resistant and non toxic.

Titanium grade 1-4 are pure grades. Grade 1 being the softest and most malleable. These grades are extremely good for things like earring findings, and wire work due to easily being formed. Titanium grades 5 and 23 (Ti-6Al-4V) are most common for body jewellery, piercings, belly bars etc. Grade 5 is the most widely used grade of titanium around the world. Both grades 5 and 23 are titanium alloys, adding typically 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium, to create a grade significantly stronger than pure titanium. Titanium alloys are considered biocompatible, and these are used for implants.

Niobium (Nickle & Copper Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Niobium is another inert (i.e. non-reactive) metal and is softer than titanium. Because it is an inert element, with no nickel, lead, or other additives, most people with metal allergies can safely wear niobium. Niobium grades 1-2 are pure grades. Grade 4 is an alloy with 1% zirconium. It is highly resistant to corrosion and other reactions, and is used in medical implants.

Niobium has a smoother surface finish than titanium on the microscopic level, for things like earring posts, this can help avoid irritation when passing through ears. Its less common to find than titanium and so often a higher cost. Like titanium it can be anodised a vast choice of colours. Niobium is not plated or painted, so the color will not flake or chip. It is anodized, meaning it is colored by dipping it into an electrically charged “bath.” It doesn’t match basic silver and gold colors — but it is available in rich black, copper, blue, bronze, green, pink, purple, teal and yellow.

Aluminium (Nickel & Copper & Lead Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Aluminium’s main advantage is its incredible lightness, lighter than titanium but just not as strong. It is nickel and lead free and thus most people wearing aluminium jewellery won’t have a reaction to them.

It can be anodised a wide range of colours and polished to a give a great shine. The anodisation process occurs with dyes rather than changing the oxide layer (such as Titanium or Niobium). Given the light weight it can be used to create comfortable larger pieces, such as bangles/necklaces with many links. Its advantage over Titanium, Niobium and Tantalum is that its fairly cheap though its mentioned to be not as strong.

24K Gold (Nickel & Copper Free | Won’t Tarnish)

We can only say 24k Gold is hypoallergenic as anything else is an alloy containing potential allergens like copper and nickel. Pure gold is 24 Karat, meaning 24 out of 24 parts are gold.

(Argentium) Sterling Silver and Fine Silver (Nickel Free|Has Copper | May Tarnish)

Sterling silver is an almost pure metal usually made from 92.5% silver and 7.5% of other metals like copper or zinc. Some are allergic to silver or the copper in the silver jewellery. However people who are allergic to only nickel (the most common source of jewellery allergies) are not allergic to silver as sterling silver doesn’t contain nickel. The main drawback is that as it contains copper, it will tarnish over time. To prevent tarnishing, some sterling is usually plated with rhodium.

Argentium™ sterling silver replaces some of the copper with 1.2% germanium (the remainder is 6.3% copper and 92.5% silver). So while you don’t need to worry about the silver jewellery tarnishing, if you are allergic to copper, this option is still out. Argentium sterling silver, thanks to germanium, is tarnish resistant, laser weldable, and has other unique properties.

Fine silver, sometimes stamped “.999”, is 99.9% pure silver, which means it is softer and more malleable than sterling. It is commonly used for bezels, handmade ball-end head pins, and components. Just like sterling silver, fine silver can be misrepresented. If you’ve experienced allergies to cheap items marked sterling, 925 or 999, you may want to try again from a reliable, knowledgeable vendor before you rule out silver entirely.

Rhodium (Nickel Free | May Wear Off)

Rhodium is one of the rarest and thus most precious metals. It’s used to plate white gold, giving it a whiter colour and used to alloy with platinum and palladium increasing their hardness. Rhodium is pretty much only used as a plating. It’s also non-reactive so the plating forms a barrier between nickel alloyed white gold and the skin. Over time this wears off and exposes the skin to the alloy and possibly the nickel. If this happens to your white gold, you will see a change in colour to a more yellow tinge. To fix it you can go to a jeweller and get a new layer of rhodium plating added.

Stainless Steel (Has Nickle | Won’t Tarnish)

Stainless steel alloys include steel (iron with carbon), chromium for scratch resistance and corrosion resistance, nickel to reduce brittleness and improve strength at both high and low temperatures, and other trace elements. For stainless steel alloys used in jewelry, these trace elements are approximately 0.75% silicon, 0.045% phosphorous, 0.03% sulfur, 2% manganese, and 0.1% nitrogen. These are used in such neglible amounts and thus are termed hypoallergenic.

304 stainless steel is the most popular grade of stainless steel. It is 18-20% chromium, 8-10.5% nickel, 0.08% carbon, plus iron and the trace elements listed above. It is commonly used in the food industry (sinks, coffee urns, dairy storage and hauling, beer/brewing, citrus and fruit juice handling, etc). The same corrosion and stain resistance that make it great for food handling, also make it popular for jewelry.

304L Stainless steel is almost the same as 304, but has a lower carbon content (0.03%), and may contain a slightly higher amount of nickel (8-12%). This alloy has increased weldability and resistance to corrosion (great for men’s jewelry).

430 stainless steel contains less than 0.75% nickel, and some forms of 430 stainless steel meet the EU nickel directive (less than .05% nickel ion migration). 430 stainless steel has good corrosion resistance compared to non-stainless steel, but not as good as the 304 and 316 alloys.

XC45 Steel is a high-quality structural carbon steel made of 0.42 – 0.5% carbon, 0.3% (or less) nickel, and small amounts of silicon, manganese, sulfur, phosphorous, chromium and copper. This grade provides the springy strength required for genuine French barrette backs (made in France) and French shoe clips.

Surgical Stainless Steel 316 and 316L surgical stainless steel contain 2-3% molybdenum for even greater resistance to harsh corrosives (both industrial, and in the body). 316L is a low carbon version of 316, with extra corrosion resistance, and is frequently used for stainless steel watches and marine applications. Like most other stainless steel, it contains 8-10.5% nickel, making it unsuitable for people with nickel allergies. 316 and 316L stainless steel alloys have properties suitable for temporary medical implants, or for making durable surgical instruments.

Pure Platinum (Nickel Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Platinum in jewellery is usually found as an alloy at normally 90-95% pure. Its one of the precious metals and with 24k Gold one of the most expensive hypoallergenic metals. Its very inert so has great corrosion resistance which means it doesn't tarnish or need a plating. In the medical industry its used for finer parts in implants, such as within pacemakers.

For jewellery pure platinum is too soft so alloying it is necessary. Several metals could be used such as Ruthenium, Iridium, Palladium or Cobalt depending on the manufacturing process and each type will differ in hardness. Platinum is often called hypoallergenic even as an alloy, although cobalt alloys in jewellery can cause a Nickel like reaction. Its very rare but some people have had a reaction to Platinum. One study (Dermatitis. 2008 May-Jun;19(3):146-7. )patch tested 446 people, 2 had a reaction.

Palladium (Nickel Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Palladium is quite a new precious metal, best know for looking very much like platinum but being much more affordable. Its in the same group of metals as platinum so shares much the same properties. It doesn't tarnish, and is used in jewellery alloyed with ruthenium or iridium with the same amount of purity around 95%.

The main difference is that palladium is slightly lighter then platinum and slightly harder.

Palladium is quite inert and although reaction to it is rare, there still have been some cases where people have had reactions. A 10 year retrospective study on Palladium showed it was more common for an allergic reaction to occur from oral dental implants, than from skin contact. It concluded that in jewellery it was extremely rare.

Tantalum (Nickel Free | Won’t Tarnish)

Tantalum is an element with exceptionally good corrosion resistance, even better than titanium. Its growing in popularity in medical applications because the properties of Tantalum closely match that of human bone allowing the bone to grow into implants better than titanium. One down side is that its roughly 4x the density of Titanium, making it unsuitable for large pieces.

For Jewellery its still uncommon, even through its highly malleable, a great advantage. Not only is it a rarer element, its highly costly to produce but like Titanium and Niobium its great for anyone wanting something hypoallergenic.

To sum up, you can limit the likelihood of a reaction only by being informed about the materials used to make the pieces you buy and then trying it. That way you can build the knowledge of your bodies’ reactions, and if your still uncertain we offer a 30 days no worries guarantee for complete peace of mind.

Do you know what metals you are allergic to or feel best on your skin? Share with us below, we will love to know.